Thursday, April 1, 2010

Honda Reflex Group Digest Number 4783

Messages In This Digest (4 Messages)

Something to watch out for.. From: mkdragonfly04
Re: Worn Roller Weights and Fuel Performance From: BruceK
File - REMINDER - Check your oil each ride day From:
File - Monthly Information Update Reminder.txt From:



Something to watch out for..

Posted by: "mkdragonfly04"   mkdragonfly04

Wed Mar 31, 2010 11:12 am (PDT)

Hello all. bike season is in full swing now here in Northeast Ohio. Weather seems to finaly be turning. Anyway Last night I removed the front and rear wheels from my wifes reflex (red 04) and when I removed the shock the whole swing arm droped about 1 1/2 inchs. At first I thought it was a busted left rear shock. So I began to remove the plastic body and what not to get to the top shosk bolts. once I removed the shock bolt and pulled the top part of the shock out I realized that the shocks main rod had just somehow backed out. Of coarce the threads were all beat up for this is the rattle I couldn't find last fall LoL anyway I was able to grind off the first couple of threads and mushroomed part or the rod and put a bit of a campher on the rod and the top section. I then compressed the spring ( by Hand) had the wife snap some vise grips just below the threads onto the rod to hold the spring and threded the top back on then releasing the vise grips and all is well. So I would advise all to just take a quick look up into the shocks and make sure you don't see any thredas showing on the main rod as I guess the can back them selfs out over time.. Happy Rideing


Re: Worn Roller Weights and Fuel Performance

Posted by: "BruceK"   bruceakoehler

Wed Mar 31, 2010 12:17 pm (PDT)

Hopefully you didn't get the pulley faces TOO shiny... (they are a dull matte finish when new).

The SEV is normally in the "ENRICH" (choked) position (so that if it fails, the scooter will still start). The effects of it remaining in that position would be a "lumpy" idle, and worse fuel economy.

It is a black module on the carb with the only 2-wire connector to the carb (do not mistake it for the TPS, which has a 3-pin connector and should not be removed).

You could either:

Remove the 2 screws that hold it in - then apply 12v to the connector and you should see the center pin move slowly, or

Disconnect the 2-pin connector. There should be 12vDC (with key on and engine cold), and about 10K ohms resistance across the SEV's connector.

Hope that helps

Bruce Koehler - the Koehlerizer
Santa Cruz, CA

--- In, "Signetring54" <signetnetring54@...> wrote:
> Thanks guys for all of the great feedback!
> I have been known as a black or white thinker in the past. This time I got stuck in black! My Bad! I meant white rollers. I will replace the rollers as per Bruce's suggestion. Regarding surfacing the variator faces, I removed the glaze on them with some very fine emery paper and then polished with some 000 steel wool. There were some very minor grooves on the variator faces, but they were almost completely removed through the minor abrasion process. I made sure not to get any lubrication fluid on any of the faces, variator or clutch pulley.
> Bruce, you mentioned the SEV and a potential problem with sticking. Are there any other symptoms that might occur with the engine operation should this happen, such as rough idling etc.,? What is the best way to diagnose this problem?
> Also thanks for the great schematic for constructing the variator puller. It worked just as intended!
> Tony
> --- In, "BruceK" <bruce@> wrote:
> >
> > Black rollers in a "K-mod" unit? I don't think so...
> >
> > The outside of the BEIGE rollers (which should be the ONLY rollers in a K-modded variator - and in the slots NOT marked "BK") and the BLACK rollers ARE interchangeable plastic sleeves - so someone MIGHT have swapped them...
> >
> > Full roller sets are available from Honda for under $15 - and yes, flat spots can mess up variator operation.
> >
> > As for replacement interval, you are correct that it is not specified - have a set available to change them when you change the belt if needed - which should be every 10,000 (not 12,000) miles.
> >
> > Lower gas mileage could be weather, fuel brand, slipping belt, non-stock belt (some are narrower than stock), more aggressive riding, stuck Starting Enrichment Valve (SEV), overfilled oil (oil gets into air filter), low tire pressure.
> >
> > The amount you noted is less than 10% - measurement error could account for a small discrepancy...
> >
> > Hope that helps
> >
> > Bruce Koehler - the Koehlerizer
> > Santa Cruz, CA
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In, "Signetring54" <signetnetring54@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I just replaced my drive belt at 22K miles and noticed that the black roller weights have some flat spots on them. This is a K-mod unit. Does anyone know what the recommended replacement interval is for replacing these rollers? There is nothing listed on the maintenance list. Also should they be changed more often with the K-mod? Further, will worn rollers also cause a decrease in gas mileage? I changed the oil, final drive fluid, spark plug, air filter, new belt, resurfaced variator faces, but gas mileage has gone down from 65-67 mpg to 60-63 mpg. Are there any others factors that could influence this reduction in fuel economy?
> > >
> >


File - REMINDER - Check your oil each ride day

Posted by: ""

Thu Apr 1, 2010 4:05 am (PDT)


Fuel System:

Keep the fuel tank full - especially during prolonged storage - to avoid rust.

Exhaust System:

Check all of the fasteners along the exhaust system and PAIR Emission system at each preventive maintenance check to help avoid blown exhaust gaskets and damaged PAIR items. Torque on headpipe studs is 7ft/lb, 9 Nm.

Fork Tubes:

Clean them to prolong fork tube seal life.


At least two members have experienced a catastrophic engine failure
due to oil loss!!!!

NEITHER observed tailpipe smoke or seepage or a puddle of oil.

At least one - a conservative rider - checked his oil (among other things)
WEEKLY - so his oil loss happened in a week's time of LOCAL ridng!

Hopefully, they will find out how the oil escaped when they
disassemble the engine so that we can learn from that
and avoid such a failure.

Meanwhile, check the oil each day you ride!!!

If one simply unscrews the dipstick and looks at the level on it, that dipstick was inserted about 1/2 inch FURTHER than the way it is to be done!!!!! - because it was SCREWED IN!!!!

It will give an artificially HIGH oil level indication.

It is imperative to:

1. Park the scooter on the centerstand - on flat ground.

2. Remove the dipstick, then wipe it with a clean lintfee wipe.

3. Reinsert the dipstick WITHOUT SCREWING IT IN
in order to get a correct check on the oil level.

4. Withdraw the dipstick without having screwed it in.

5. Check that the oil level is within the level marks on the dipstick.

Be careful to not overfill.

THe following addition from Rick in Ny:

P.S. The crosshatch squares are clear of oil when you wipe the dip stick
clean. When you insert it and remove it these little squares will have oil in
them to show how high you oil level is.

P.P.S. Too much oil has caused some people to loose power also. (Such as oil
dripping out when you take the dip stick out) Rick in KY

That's because the excess oil is sucked up into the the air filter
via the crankcase breather - Bruce


File - Monthly Information Update Reminder.txt

Posted by: ""

Thu Apr 1, 2010 4:05 am (PDT)

Please visit the Polls section monthly to see if you can add some information regarding things like:
> Tire life
> Belt life
> Brake pad life
etc., based on YOUR recent experiences.
You can also take a look at other member's experiences with these and other items.

Also take a look at the Database section and add your info -
or view that posted by others on topics like:
> Member's locations and other info
> K-mod experience
> equipment
> Dealer experince
and other topics that may be added.

By providing your information, you are helping everyone
to have a better scootering experience.


PS - even if you have "voted" previously in a Poll, you can update your previous entry anytime.

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